Boards, Oh how I love them

I love surfboards, I really do! Not too surprising considering I have been surfing for close to 30 years now. During my time surfing I have owned 60 some boards, yea 60. Boards have come and gone some I wish I still had, like my first board, a 6'6" G&S winter swallow tail. At least I have a picture of it.

One special board that comes to mind is a recent addition from a couple of years ago. I didn't get it my wife did. For my graduation present for completing my masters my wife went out and ordered me (with the help of Bird at South Coast and Steve Seebold) a Mark Richards twin fin. This is an actual board shaped by the man himself. Mark Richards was the 4 time world chapion from the late 70's to the early 80's, a true legend and humble guy. My wife is amazing! I never would have guessed she would do this but she did.

Goverment point

This is from my trip several years ago. See that pic above? This was an all day surf where I only go out to eat or go to the bathroom. We started at 9 am and finished at about 5 pm. Through out the day the surf progressed from glassy and small to slightly head high with strong to moderate offshore winds. Hence this is the reason why I just kept surfing all day. Normal waves would race down the point into the sandy beach break, then followed by a long sprint up the beach back to the take off point. Needless to say it was a workout! More later, cheers.

Also note the hood and booties I am wearing. The water here is very cold, even though we had air temps in the mid 70's. I would have to say the water was around 55 degrees, brrrrrrr!

Hello All

This is my blog, so enjoy.

This is me at Goverment Point after an afternoon surf. Great waves! I know I should smile but I was getting ready to leave, so thus the sour look.

This blog is for my thoughts on surfing or what ever else crosses my mind. So this is very "off the cuff".